correct me if I'm wrong but weren't the factory ones on the waggies fiberglass. Synthetic Mineral Fibers -- Health Hazards, Fiberglass: Environment and Occupational Disease Epidemiology, https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/index.php?title=Make_a_fiberglass_fan_shroud&oldid=24818. As this is a one-off fan shroud, special fairing techniques are not employed in its execution. You can also use a brush, foam roller or your fingers to manipulate the air out. Use a sanding block with 40 grit sandpaper to taper the edges of the plenum box down. Cut strips of 1 1/2 oz fiberglass mat, and lay them out on a piece of cardboard, ready to be wetted out. When wetting out mat with resin, many people work the resin into the mat while it is on the wet out board. Buy JD FIBERGLASS 91275 CORVETTE FAN SHROUD 327: Fan Shrouds - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases from backside face of radiator to farthest edge of fan blade 4". Learn how to repair a window channel, make a patch panel, chrome plate fiberglass … Fiberglass Fan Shroud 1964-66 Mustang 170 200 engine | eBay Just clamp the shroud to the table, and lay up 3 layers of fiberglass mat. the last two I bought both still had them, they looked factory and I know for a fact they were fiberglass and these rigs were 20-30 years old and the shrouds were still holding up. this works good. Step 2: Shape the buck with sandpaper: Step 3: Notice the tilt of the foam. You only brush enough resin on to cover the mat with resin. once it has a few layers of fiberglass let it completely cure then cut the fiberglass mold in sections and remove the foam after it is all removed put all the pieces back together and fiberglass all the seams back together and let it cure next is a lot of sanding and smoothing then primer and painting. This will make it easy to shape the circle, as well as cut the box section down to its proper thickness. I've got zero experience with fiberglass. I have the fan shroud off the car and want to do a little clean up. Push the material into inside corners, stretching it as you go. Fan manufacturers have continued to reduce the thickness of the fans and now there is a shroud from Cool Craft that when combined with the fan only measures 2-5/8-inches thick. Post the year and model for everyone. I use polyester surfacing primer on all of my plugs and one-offs. Hot rod fan shroud building a how to article using fiberglass For those of you, like me, who have limited metal fabrication skills or lack the tools to fabricate a fan shroud, this article came from hotrod(dot)com today. I'm gonna lick everything you butt doesn't touch!!!! Done correctly and applied while the previous lay up is still workable, you won't be able to tell that the part was made from separate pieces of mat. I usually stretch the material, and wind up with a section of mat that I can reapply to the stretched, thinned out areas. Just peel the foil layer off. For original style v-belt applications only. Stretch the material over any outside corners, but don't try to fold it as it will only spring back. 3 layers of 1-1/2 oz mat will make a part that is about 0.120" thick, as each layer contributes about .040" to the laminate. 1966-1967 327 Radiator Cooling Fan Upper Repair Shroud Fiberglass. If you pull some material off the edge, you can put it back over the outside of the corner, as it has probably gotten a bit thin there anyway. This will be sanded into a radius by hand during the final sanding. (USED) 2007 Mack CTP713, Fan Shroud. The air bubbles can be ground out, and filled. Make a wood frame (square end for where the radiator would be and round where the fan would go) Cover it with aluminum foil so the 'glass won't stick Staple some stretchy fabric over it to have a basic shape Cover fabric on the outside with fiberglass cloth and resin (do couple of layers, about three around the edges) On an exterior body part, air bubbles would not be acceptable. The glass transition temp of Polyester resin is on the order of 50 degees C or ~122 Degrees F and tends to degrade with moisture. After sanding with 80 grit, a final sanding can be done with 120 grit. I then spray a coating of polyvinyl alcohol on the waxed surface. Saw this in person this weekend! Use of a minimum N95 dust mask, and proper eye and body protection is a must. Brush some resin on the surface of your buck. Shrouds are sold per each. The techniques used in this article can be applied to just about any part that can be constructed from fiberglass. The shroud was removed and it was determined that the shroud was made out of polypropylene. Granted although it is probably not as strong as a shroud made completely out of fiberglass, ultimately, the only “flying debris” issue of concern is not self-destruction but rather the small amount of Bondo used to make the patch lines look good. Stuff like this needs to get posted over on the 'network' so it's not lost. Then, fit and glue pieces of foam larger than your layout on the board. cans for mixing resin and holding acetone for washing your hands and tools. The wax and PVA that were applied to the buck are making it easy to separate the foam from the part. As mentioned before, this shroud is going to need to enclose the radiator where the fan swings 1" above the top. The shroud has been scraped and the color is fading. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...50#post1503850, http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286, http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925, Send a private message to Southern Gorilla, Send a private message to 81cherokee laredo, http://ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=127321. "Dry" spots will show up as white strands of fiberglass that spring up out of the resin. Here are the steps I took to make a fiberglass fan shroud: Step 1: Use 1" insulating foam to build the buck (form). Nothing fancy in the way of spray guns here. There are many other ways to shape your buck. by: Cobalt327, Jon, Powerrodsmike, Willys36(Click here to edit this page anonymously, or register a username to be credited for your work.). This foam is available in thicknesses from 1/2" up to 6" thick at any fiberglass supply house. Cut the shroud away from the form today. Using a piece of thin plywood is a good way to start on any part that has a flat mounting surface. If the binder has dissolved, the mat will just fall apart when you try to pick it up. You wouldn't need the shroud if you just left the hood open a little bit. Nice write-up,'where do you get the fleece? It is parallel with the radiator, and there are no hoses or other obstructions to deal with on this particular project. There is a good crack near the opening for the intake runner at cylinder #6. The fibers are almost floating on the resin, and the appearance is one of shiny, glossy, pure resin, with a very low reinforcement ratio. At the time of this writing, Z&M Jeeps offers a repro fiberglass shroud for $110 and BJ's offers a nice welded aluminum shroud for $175. Work quickly but carefully, as the resin will gradually dissolve the binder. You can also glue the foam down with an expanding urethane glue, such as Gorilla glue, or some of the expanding foam that comes in an aerosol can. Scrub a light coat into the surface in 3 or 4 directions before applying the fill coat, this will get the filler into the pores better. The air shows up as misshapen, somewhat opaque objects in the laminate. The fiberglass has a lot of micro cracks in the surface. Are there any noteworthy angles or off-center components? Thanks for all the comments. You are only limited by your imagination here. Squeegees don't work well on fiberglass mat. Please specify an application. I made a small miscalculation in the fan tube size and had to add some foam around the edge. The part is still left on the foam and plywood buck because it is easier to handle during the bodywork phase. In this case, it's just the underside of a fan shroud, so it will work just fine. same technique as speaker enclosures. I like the Duratec surfacing primer the best, because you can build up to 0.040" in a single application. 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